Month: July 2019

Make Colorful Fleece Photo Blankets With Pattern Fabrics

To start putting your photo blanket, you need to determine which side of the fabric to use for the outside of your throw. When I made the blanket, it had a small white edge on the wrong side, where the fabric was bordered. So you can lay the print fabric face down on a flat surface. The wrong side of the fabric will be face up. You can also lay your solid fabric wrong side down, putting the wrong sides of the fabric together, so that the right side out will be face upward. You can put the solid fleece on the top of the quilt as this is much easier to see what you are doing.

Thus, you need to match the edges very carefully. Otherwise, it might look bad from both the sides. If they are not properly matched, you need to trim a side or adjust it for the perfect match. With the help of long straight pins you can match the ends and side together properly. Although, you can add extra pins that make your photo blankets straight and they keep the fabric intact while you work.

Apart from that, you can use a good pair of scissors. One is required for the smooth cutting. The first cut you will make is at your corner. So you can remove a square at the corners, about two inches by two inches deep. You can remove the excessive fabric which is not required. You can make two inches cuts down the side of the fabric. You can start in one corner and cut with a perfect way around the quilt. The whole procedure is depending on the experience that you have earned in your previous days. Based on your experiences and expertise, you may decide to measure your fabric before making your cuts. In this case, you can use a fabric pencil to pre-mark your borders. It is more helpful.

Nevertheless, to start the stitch procedure, you can take the solid color strip of materials and wrap it around the print of material. Make sure always use the solid strip to wrap around the other to keep your stitch looking consistent and neat. Before you starting the stitches, there are a couple of challenges that you have to be aware of in order to make the perfect stitches. Sometimes, it can be difficult to get the needle to come out on the inside part of the loop. The best way to make this process easier is to make a larger loop than you would like. You can make a straight line for the bottom part of the stitch and mark the portion where you will start and finish every stitch.

Furthermore, now that you have completed your fleece blanket, you may want to wrap it and give it personalized gift item. However, I personally prefer to put the photo blankets in a gift bag rather than a gift box. The bag maintains their shape properly. At the same time the recipient would happy to receive this type of gift item on special occasions.

Improve Your Photography Skills

Practice

Though this may seem somewhat obvious, many people only practice their photography skills during special moments. The more you become comfortable using your camera, the easier it will be for you to take excellent pictures for special occasions. Even when you do not have the camera in your hands, you can still practice with your eyes, noting which things will make good pictures.

Lighting Matters

Before you begin a photo session, look to see where your primary light sources are located. Are there awkward shadows being cast? Can you use them to create special effects? If there is shadowing that you would like to minimize on an up close photo, use the flash on your camera. It will help to light the dark areas. You also want to be certain that the light source is not directly behind you. Otherwise, you may inadvertently end up casting your own shadow into the photo.

Pay Attention

If you are working with human subjects, interact with them. Make eye contact and give them feedback on what you would like them to do. If you want your subjects to smile, have a well rounded stockpile of jokes and one-liners that you can use to release a natural smile when you are ready. If your subject is uncomfortable, it will show in the photos. Ask what you can do to help them if this occurs.

Look At Everything in the Frame

While you want your main subject to be at the center of your photograph, it is critical that you pay attention to the other elements surrounding them. Is there garbage or something else unsightly in the background of an anniversary picture? The message you wish for the picture to convey will make a difference in how these background elements will come across. For example, if you are showing the plight of the homeless, garbage in the background may be a desired addition to the picture.

Invest Minimally

Good photographs are not necessarily the result of having lots of expensive equipment. In fact, if you do not know how to use it properly, that investment is a waste. Start with a minimal amount of equipment and learn everything that you can about it. Read up on your camera, figuring out the different features it may have. See how others have made the most of theirs. Eventually, you can add more tools to help you along the way. By waiting, you ensure that each investment you make will benefit your photography skills in some way. Your camera should have a manual with it. Begin by reading it. Then, continue to expand your knowledge base. Watch and learn from others.

Learning how to take good photos is not something that simply happens to people. It takes plenty of practice and learning in order to become good. Learn everything you can about your camera so that you can be more relaxed. This will transfer to your subjects as well. Practice with different types of lighting and angles. Though you may not like every picture that you take, you can learn from all of them, even if it is what not to do in the future. Your skills are certain to improve if you put into practice the tips that you have found here.

Get Ready for A Studio Photoshoot

The main light has to be placed in a very specific position in comparison to the model. The angle, height, and distance of the main light are vital to getting the right look. You do not want this light in the models eyes or from a side angle. It also needs to be placed at a good height so you are not casting shadows on the models face. With this light you need to use a diffuser or a soft box to help decrease the darkness of the shadows in the picture.

A hair light is a second light that sits in a specific position. Basically, the hair light is placed behind the model for a few reasons. To use this light correctly attach a snoot to it. A snoot is an attachment to the light that helps direct the light to a specific spot on the model; in this case it is for the hair.

The camera, you need to connect your camera with the studio lights so everything flashes in the right connections. There are a couple of was to handle the camera for a photo shoot. One of the ways is to put it on a tripod and keep the camera stationary. By doing that you will help eliminate blur and you can find a sweet spot to stay at. Another way is by just holding the camera and creating different angles while the shoot is happening.

The reflector is used to bounce light onto the models features from the main light. There are a few different types of reflector; you could use a white, black, gold and silver colored reflector. You would want to use a white reflector when the area you are taking a picture in does not have enough light. A black reflector would be used to take away light when there is too much shine washing out the model. A gold/silver reflector is for the happy medium, but find what works best for you and best for the situation in general.

Nikon D3400 and Video

The other thing that is really important when you are shooting d3400 video is to understand that you are liberated by the moving image. What I mean by that is that when you are shooting a still particularly if you are shooting a still that you want to tell a story, then you will try to get certain components of that story into the frame, because those components in that frame and where they are positioned in that frame will help in that storytelling process. When you are shooting video you can have various components of the story, but not necessarily in the frame at the same time, because you can move the camera and the video will move with it from one component to the other and so, in doing so, bring those two components together. But they do not have to be in the frame at the same time. That is a really interesting skill to try to develop and it really brings your videography up to a much higher level, but it is something that for a stills photographer can be quite difficult to understand and quite difficult really to execute very well. Those are the two elements – sound and composition – which you will need to explore further and consider more when you are shooting video than when you are normally shooting stills.

So lets now take a look at the camera and see how we can prepare it to shoot videos. First of all we switch it on and we open up the lens. Now the interesting thing about this camera, unlike some other cameras, is it doesn’t have a specific video mode on the MODE DIAL. What that means is that you can shoot video in pretty much any of the modes. In some cases it does not make a great deal of difference and in others it makes a little difference. I would recommend really that you either leave it on AUTO or you leave it on MANUAL because when it comes to video modes you either have an automatic mode, which essentially does everything for you, or you switch it over to manual where you can have much more control.

I am going to switch it on to Auto initially so that we can have a look through that. So having switched the camera on then I go into menus and if I go into the SHOOTING MENU and at the bottom option there are MOVIE SETTINGS. These are the only settings which are specifically for shooting video and they are all in one place. If I go into that then I have various options – frame size and frame rate, movie quality. the microphone, wind noise reduction and manual movie settings. Lets start from the beginning and have a look at frame size and frame rate. If I click on there there is a long list of different frame rates and frame sizes. It is useful at this point to explain where they come from and how important they actually are. So 1920 x 1080 is Full HD and is probably about the best quality you can shoot on a DSLR at the moment outside of 4k, which is the revolutionary new system which not many people are using. Certainly in terms of social media – YouTube or Vimeo or any of those platforms – they are more than happy to take 1920 x 1080 and in fact they are more than happy to take also the one down towards the bottom here which is 1280 x 720. 1280 x 720 is called HD and 1920 x 1080 is called Full HD, so they are the frame sizes. If you like they they reflect the similar parameters to the file size of a still image so 1920 x 1080 is larger than 1280 x 720.

The next choice in the Nikon d3400 video settings is the frame rate. Now you have various frame rates here and they are different for different reasons. I am going to put this camera down and try and explain first of all why you have 60 and 30 frames per second and 50 and 25 frames per second, because whilst it might not seem terribly important it can be. These refer to television systems and in the United States there is a system called NTSC and NTSC runs at 60 Hertz. In Europe predominantly and also other parts of the world there is a system called PAL and PAL runs at 50 Hertz.

So if we now come out of frame size and frame rate, the next one down is MOVIE QUALITY and that option is either HIGH or NORMAL. Obviously, I would recommend that you choose high quality. The important thing to remember here is that, regardless of whether you shoot 60 or 30 frames per second, you are going to use a large amount of space on your memory cards, so an ordinary memory card when you are shooting video would be minimum size I would say 16 gigabytes and probably you will be looking at 32 gigabytes. Below that is MICROPHONE. As you probably know this camera does not have an external microphone socket. It does have an internal microphone and that is here and in fact it is not too bad. If we go into the microphone settings then we have three choices: the first one is MICROPHONE OFF which I do not recommend even if you do not really intend to run the sound. The reason is that having the microphone on and therefore having sound on your video even when you are editing can be useful because it can help you remember which clip is which. Then the other two settings are AUTO SENSITIVITY and MANUAL SENSITIVITY. Then the bottom option is MANUAL MOVIE SETTINGS. As I said right at the beginning you can shoot on auto or on manual settings on this camera. However, if you do not switch manual movie settings on here, then even if you switch around to manual settings, it will still run on auto settings because you have not told the camera that you want it to run on manual settings.

So lets move it around to MANUAL in the Mode Dial and see what I can change when I am in the manual mode. I go back into the Liveview here and I just make sure that I go round so that I am on the video settings here. Now, again it does not give me any more details here it just tells me the basics. Again it has the microphone in the bottom left hand corner, but if I press the I button then it gives me a lot more that I can choose from. It gives me again the movie frame and quality, but it allows me to change the white balance. It also gives me microphone, it allows me to change the ISO, it allows me to change the picture control, the wind noise reduction again, but they also allow me to change the auto focus area mode as well as the focus mode, so there are more things here that I can change when I am in manual mode. But lets have a look now and see how I can change the three more elements which are our shutter speed, aperture and ISO which is why I am in manual mode.

But lets have a look now and see how I can change the three more import elements which are our shutter speed, aperture and ISO which is why I am in manual mode. Now there are two elements here that I can change actually when I am shooting video. The one I can not do – the one on this set beforehand – is the Aperture and I need to come out of Liveview here and go back into normal manual mode, basically, in order to change the aperture. So if I come out of Liveview now and press the AUTO EXPOSURE button at the top and then use the main dial I can change the aperture to make it go up or down. In this instance I am down to f/4 and I can see here that I have got the ISO and the shutter speed at normal settings because essentially I mean stills setting. Here when I go into Liveview at the back then the aperture is set as we have just done it but I have the options now when I am either here before I shoot the video or during the video to change the shutter speed and the ISO. The way I change the ISO is by using this function button. Now if you looked at the setup menu video you will know that there is an option there called buttons and I can set this function button to ISO and I did that at the time because I think I said at the time that it helped video. This is why – because now I can just set the function button and on the back screen the ISO option goes yellow which shows it is live and then I can use the main dial to change the ISO and you can see when I do that because the exposure comes straight through to the back screen. I can see how that affects the exposure of my video.

Planning For A Photography Trip

Months before leaving

Planning for a photography trip starts at this time. As soon as the trip is confirmed, try to look for the highlights of the places you will be visiting. I would do a little bit of research about where to take photos from and what to take photos of. For example, if you are coming to Indonesia in the middle of August, you may encounter independence day events there.

Early bird bookings for hotels and flights will cost you less. Book a hotel which gives you easy access to your photography spots. I would write down a list of locations where I will be taking pictures from, and then decide the best location of my hotel.

Weeks before the day

I would spend more time on planning what photos I want to capture at this stage of planning my photography trip. For instance, if I were to travel to Indonesia in the middle of August, I would be taking photos of the independence day ceremony in the morning, fun events in the afternoon. Then in the evening I would take photos of the local sunset.

By properly planning your photography trips, you will be able to dig deeper for more thoughts and ideas. Look at pictures available on the internet and get inspired by them. But not only from the internet, you can also search local photographs from libraries, image directories, photo books, local websites, and tourism guidebooks.

This is a process which may take some time because you never know when inspirations hit.

At this point of the photography trip planning, I would also check my equipment. I would check if any of my gear is not working well and have them repaired right away if necessary. Servicing them now is the best because they must be ready by the time you depart.

Few days before the trip

Keep in mind that some places don’t provide internet access. Therefore it is much better if you write down, or print, every note you would need, such as local shops, tourist office, and local sunrise and sunset time. Weather forecast is also an important information to be noted.

It would be better if you start making a list of what to bring for the photography trip. Sometimes you might forget some items if you think of them 1-2 days before the trip.

1 day before the trip

I would pack the camera and its equipment first. The last thing you want to discover is missing your spare battery or camera lenses at home. Have a last check on the weather forecast. Print all documents you will need for the photography trip. Make sure you have the memory card(s) ready.

D-day

Check and recheck for the last time before you leave. It doesn’t hurt you to have an extra checking, rather than regretting that you left an important piece of gear at home. Camera lenses, formatted memory cards, spare battery, and your travel documents should be rechecked.

Insurance, cash money, taxi reservation, flight ticket, and passport are usually the most important travel documents which you should not forget to bring. Other than that you are set and ready to go.

Create Photo Effects

Choose a photo editor

To get started, you would need to choose and open a photo editor. Remember, there are plenty of these out there, so just pick the best one amongst them all and install it on to your computer. Once installed, open it, and import the photo that you wish to work on.

Access the photo

The photo that you have just imported will be available in a tab named ‘layers’. Now, click on the tab to open it so that you would be able to make necessary edits over the photo.

Consider filters

The next step involves you accessing the tab named ‘filter’. There would be a number of sub-menus within this tab, all of which would provide you with details on the different filters that you can use. Herein, it would be necessary for you to decide how many filters you wish to use over your photos. Once done, just select the right one from the sub-menu.

Blur the image

Now, with all that out of the way, you now need to access the tab name ‘blur’. This particular tab is rather helpful in terms of retouching images. Through it, you have the potential to come up with new shades, haze or soften the shading effect over your photos, and define lines etc. Basically, you would need to play around a bit here to be able to achieve the cool photo effects that you are interested in.

The final step

Now, the final step involves you accessing the ‘distort’ tab. Using the sub-menus given in this tab, it would be possible for you to render, stretch, or even squeeze it. This part is truly the most fun-filled one, and once you are done with, your desired fun photo effects will be in place!

Shooting Winter Landscapes

  • Carry only the essentials you will need. Loading your camera bag with every bit of equipment you own. Travel as light as possible if you are going to be outdoors photographing all day long. Traveling light will also help you save your energy. When hiking, climbing or crossing snow filled hills; a warm thermos and energy producing food will serve you much more than a extra camera equipment will.
  • Dress for Success – Proper clothing is essential. You need to be warm and comfortable when out in the weather shooting winter photographs. Winter weather can be brutal, so if you are planning a photography trip, always be prepared.
  • Keep an eye out for details: Things like Snow, icicles, ice covered objects and frost accentuate texture and atmosphere in your subjects. An early snowy or frosty morning is a great time for macro or close-up photography. These frosty mornings can also reveal patterns in landscapes. Be sure to watch your camera placement carefully: If you are photographing in early morning experiment with photographing it at different angles to the sun – this can give your images heavy shadows adding extra mood to your landscape photographs, also pay attention to the foreground in your photos which will add depth to your image.
  • Pay Careful attention to your Exposure: Snow and ice can fool your cameras exposure meter and are more difficult to expose properly than normal scenes. Take light readings from snow will often read the scene as an underexposed image. Most camera or hand held meters will read the snow as a greytone so it is a good idea to bracket your exposures. When bracketing exposures add 1 – 2 stops of light to compensate for your light meter reading. Using an 18% grey card should also give you a more accurate light reading.

DIY Camera Bag

One of the biggest reasons that you should consider a DIY camera bag instead of an expensive high-end bag is the fact that it won’t be attractive to thieves. People who steal electronics know what brand name camera bags look like and look for the best targets to steal from. A DIY camera bag will also allow you to customize it to fit your array of equipment so that you can always take everything you might need with you and have the right tools for every job.

To make a camera bag, you will need to choose the item that will serve as the shell. This may be a laptop bag, tote, or duffel bag. Keep in mind that the cushioning you add will take up a large portion of the space so you will need to account for added space. Cushioning will be the most important part of the bag because it is what will hold the camera and accessories in place and protect them from becoming damaged.

Two types of foam that are commonly used are open-cell foam and Styrofoam. Open-cell foam is thicker and “fluffier” than its closed-cell foam which is much more like cardboard. Creating the bag is as simple as using ripstop nylon to create the shell for the foam and then putting the foam inside of the nylon. Once you have done this, just hand stitch the opening together and glue the compartments to the foam on the bottom of the bag.

The compartments you create should be sized to give the camera and each individual lens a good, snug fit so that the items are held in place. The foam can be cut to fit the camera and provide cushioning all around the bag. Velcro might be used to hold the compartments in place. Your DIY camera bags will be custom made to fit your camera equipment at a much lower price than a designer bag that is made to fit any camera and equipment.

Shoot for the Moon

So lets first discuss why it is so difficult to photograph the moon. The two main issues are: (1) The brightness of the moon, and (2) the size of the moon.

Almost everyone has experienced a “moon-lit night”. This is when a full moon, or nearly full moon, lights up a dark night. You see everything around you fairly well, which is evidence that the small amount of sunlight that the moon reflects is actually quite bright.

Why is this a problem for moon photography? When the moon is so bright and everything itself is much darker, it is impossible to make a photo where both the moon and the subject are clearly visible. Either the moon is very bright and washed out (and everything else is properly exposed), or the moon’s details are well-defined, but everything else is black or very dark. We’ll get to possible solutions in a little bit.

The other problem with moon photography is that it is actually quite small in the sky. Using a normal lens will cause the moon to appear very small in the resulting photo. This will not usually create a compelling image, even if the frame is properly exposed. Of course you can use a zoom lens and take a photo of the moon, but that is usually pretty boring.

So what is a photographer to do? My suggestions are as follows:

  • Plan on photographing a full moon at or near moonrise or moonset, when the moon is very near the horizon
  • Look for interesting subjects that are large (e.g. building or tree size), in a large flat region, and which are visible from a distance of a few hundred feet to a few hundred yards.
  • Research the direction (aka the azimuth) where the moon will rise or set in a given month, and select a subject where the moon will be easily be visible and adjacent to the subject from a distance

OK, you may not be able to easily visualize these ideas, but let me explain what I’m trying to accomplish here. I want you to photograph the full moon near the horizon, from a distance, and with an interesting subject in the frame. The reason I want to photograph the full moon near the horizon is because the light it is emitting nearly matches the ambient light of the rest of the world at that time. That’s because the sun would be directly behind you and it would be illuminating both the moon and your subject equally.

This concept of even lighting only works with the full moon, because during other phases of the moon the moon is either too high in the sky or below the horizon when the sun is behind you.

Now simply photographing the moon near the horizon does not alone make for an interesting image. So now think about making the moon LARGE in the frame, and in combination with an interesting subject. This is the hard part. You obviously will be using a zoom lens for this, so you will be shooting BOTH the moon and the subject from a distance. They need to be very near each other in the frame. This is where a lot of planning is needed. You need a large, unobstructed, flat area for this (i.e. no hills, trees, buildings, etc) so that the rising or setting moon is visible.

Insight Into Camera Lenses

Standard Lenses accompany a characterized central length and can’t be moved past that. The corner to corner of the negative is the same as that of the central length. They have this natural capacity to deliver pictures precisely as they show up before you. There are no noticeable changes. These ‘default lenses’ are utilized as a part of representation photography, as stillness is the prerequisite. These lenses are accessible at authenticated computerized lens rental.

Most camera lenses are purchased independently. There are a few companies that offer particular bundles that will accompany no less than one lens. Your most solid option is to investigate lenses at camera strength stores. The individuals who are new to photography might need to do a tad bit of examination to discover what they may require. Lenses may not be something they should stress over yet, particularly in the event that they are simply beginning.

One of the initial steps to investigating lenses is to discover the various types. You can utilize the Internet or converse with anybody you realize that are into photography. Numerous will have the capacity to let you know what to search for when you are purchasing lenses. At the point when surfing the Internet for data, sort in Camera Lenses. Additionally, inquiry different producers. Some of those sites will have awesome data for you.

Lenses can be either a solitary central length (prime) lens or a zoom lens which has a scope of numerous central lengths. Prime lenses have a tendency to be of preferable quality over zoom lenses on the grounds that there are bargains when outlining lenses with a wide range of central lengths instead of planning a lens with a solitary central length. It is hard to keep up sharpness all through the lense’s full zoom range. Generally, picture quality corrupts in zooms as they are stretched out to the more extended central lengths. Late PC planning of zoom lenses has enhanced their quality. In spite of the fact that zoom lenses are extremely mainstream I incline toward my most loved prime lens when I need to be guaranteed of a sharper picture. It is critical to note that most lenses are most honed amidst their gap range. The special case of this are lenses with substantial most extreme openings (f/1.4, f/1.2, or f/1). This is on account of these lenses are intended to be utilized at these most extreme gaps. I think it is critical for fledglings to utilize a prime lens since it compels them to ponder how to utilize only one perspective to make their photos.

The lenses are additionally delegated wide edge, ordinary and telephoto. You can have wide edge, telephoto, or midrange zooms as well. How they are arranged needs to do with the film or sensor size. What is viewed as a typical lens for a 35mm camera is a telephoto to a camera with a smaller APS (DX) size sensor or a wider point to a bigger medium organization camera. Since there is a wide range of sensor arrangements (sizes) ordinarily central lengths are discussed as 35mm counterparts, (what the central length would be for a 35mm camera). The lenses are measured in central lengths by millimeters. A typical lens is one where the edge of perspective is near what we ordinarily see with our eyes (50mm). A wide edge lens is one that includes a more extensive point of perspective than we ordinarily watch (50mm).

So what various types of lenses are there? Talking in 35mm camera reciprocals here, wide point lenses are those with central lengths under 50mm. A 28mm lens is a moderate wide edge while a 14mm is a fish eye with a compelling edge of perspective. With a fisheye lens, you need to ensure your feet aren’t in the photo when shooting. Telephoto lenses are ones with central lengths longer than 50mm. Picture lenses fall in this class. Some place around a 90mm lens is useful for a ¾ picture, where a 180mm is pleasant for a head and shoulders representation. In the event that you need to get not so close, but rather still individual with the untamed life you ought to begin with something like a 300mm and go for a 600mm on the off chance that you truly need to stay undercover to the grizzly brushing in favor of the slope. Quality telephotos are extremely costly in light of the fact that there is a considerable measure of enormous glass in them and they are the length of your arm.

Numerous lenses have large scale (close centering) includes however, there are lenses extraordinarily made for close-up work and their quality is better. The more extended the central length of a full scale lens the more prominent working separation there is from what is being captured. Viewpoint control (PC or movement) lenses offer the capacity to adjust for lens bending while shooting structures. Professional photographers utilize these. There are picture lenses that are delicate center or offer defocus control for the individuals who wish delicateness or decent bokeh to their pictures. Mirror telephotos offer a cheap different option for costly long lenses. They are much shorter and lighter since they have less glass and a mirror in their outline. Quality is negligible and they have an altered gap which is normally moderate importance you can’t utilize them in low light. The lens’ bokeh will likewise be rendered with circles in view of the mirror.