Month: August 2019

Ways to Learn Photography At Home

Tutoring

Perhaps you learn best by watching someone else do a task first. When you watched your older brother ride a bike, you took in how his legs moved, the way he sat on the seat, and how he leaned when he went around corners. All of this information was channeled through your mind and into your muscles. You imitated his movements and were soon racing around the block without training wheels.

You can learn photography the same way by using a tutor if observation is your learning technique. Of course, if you can’t find a tutor, online classes that include videos can be a wonderful solution.

Instruction Manuals

Your camera will come with an instruction manual, but it is more about mechanics than about the art of photography. Learning how to create beautiful images will take a different type of book entirely. There are hundreds of photography books on the market. Before you purchase one, spend some time in the book store reading through the first couple of pages of several books. Each book will have a voice. When you find the voice that speaks to you, you’ll know you found the right book. Online courses that include downloadable class notes can also be a valuable tool.

Online Classes

The beauty of online classes is that they use several different teaching tools to allow you to customize your learning experience. There will be a weekly video to watch. This can help those who learn by watching. There are also assignments that will help every student improve but especially those who learn by doing. The assignments give the student the opportunity to make mistakes and learn from them.

Before you sign up for an online course, make sure you will get feedback from an instructor. While you may be able to point out what is wrong with your photo, you may not know how to fix it. That’s why it’s important to have access to professionals who can take your education to the next level.

Nikon D3400 Mode Dial

So lets have a look at the first one on the Nikon D3400 mode dial – NIGHT PORTRAITURE. Now night portraiture is a mode which allows you to take a portrait at night. This is not as straightforward as it seems. First of all, it engages the flash to shoot what is called slow sync, and that opens the aperture and slows down the shutter speed, which allows the camera to get in as much of the light in the background of the picture as possible. Then, just before the shutter closes on the camera, the flash will go off to illuminate the subject in the foreground. That gives you a quite balanced picture where you have the subject well illuminated in the foreground but with the contextual background visible too. If you just shot with the flash then you would have the subject slightly overexposed in the foreground and just a black background. So by shooting it with night portrait it means that you get the background and some context in which the subject is standing and so it gives some meaning to the picture.

As with all of the semi-automatic modes – which are the ones that go up to M, A, S and P – essentially the ones that go up to the green auto mode, most of the presets are set and there is very little wiggle room. But when you are looking at each of them – particularly if you are looking on the back of the camera – there are certain things that you can change. It is worth knowing what you can change in each of the settings because you may want to change them just to slightly change the style of the picture that you are taking. So on the back of the camera you press the i button. It gives you the options that you can change when you are in each setting. So, for example, in NIGHT PORTRAIT we can change the quality and compression rate of the picture, the focus (autofocus or manual), flash compensation and exposure compensation. The final option open to you here is the ISO. That is set on auto and there is a very good reason for that when you are in night portraiture. The camera will set the aperture to be as wide as possible to get as much light into the sensor as possible, and it will also set the shutter speed to be at least 1/30th of a second, because any slower than that means there is likely to be movement blur when you take the picture. So that means that out of the 3 variables, ISO, shutter speed and aperture, you have basically fixed or minimized the options for two of them. So the ISO is the only variable that can move around with any great flexibility. In most cases the ISO probably will not go above 1000 or 1600. You will get an element of grain and noise in that shot, but it is a night portrait and to some extent that could and should be expected. So it is best to leave the ISO on auto in most cases. You can set it, but it does reduce the options for the Nikon D3400 and in this instance I think you should leave the camera to do what it does best which is to get the best exposure for your picture.

The mode just above the night portraiture on the Nikon D3400 mode dial is represented by a flower and is called CLOSE-UP MODE. It is a kind of macro mode which you can shoot even with the kit lens and it opens the aperture very wide which means that the subject in focus is very sharp but the background is blurred and that means that the subject stands out even more. The ISO is on auto for this and that is because you have set the aperture very wide, the shutter speed is set accordingly too for handheld photography and so the ISO is the only variable.

The one above close-up mode is the Running Man – the SPORTS MODE – and that prioritizes the shutter speed. It is very important when you are shooting sport or action that you have a fast shutter speed so that you freeze the subject in the frame and that means that you need at least 1/250th and probably 1/500th of a second shutter speed. So the ISO will go up accordingly, depending on the light, whether it is daylight or darker than that, it might go up to a 1000 or 1600 even 3200 and the aperture will be as wide as possible so that it can get as much light in and onto the sensor in that very brief period the shutter is open. The flash will not work and it will be on continuous which means that you will be shooting 5 frames a second, which is a good thing because it means that you are more likely to get a good frame out of any action that happens in front of you.

The one above sport on the Nikon D3400 mode dial is called CHILD MODE and it is ideal for candid photography. It is not a portrait mode but it is a mode which is designed for taking candid shots of people which also have plenty of the background in as well, to give that subject some context. It has quite a narrow aperture so that ensures that there is plenty of background in there. It means also that it slows down the shutter speed to give more depth of field. If it is deemed to be too dark, the flash will pop up. It also makes some of the colors a little more vivid but also focuses on getting the skin tones just right. Skin tones are really important in candid shots. When you look at a picture of person you look at their face or their features and the skin tones need to be just right. If it is not, it is really very noticeable. The colors of the clothes or the background can be slightly different from reality and the eye does not really register that provided the face and the skin look right and that is what this child mode is for – to shoot candid shots and get those skin tones right.

The one above child mode is LANDSCAPE MODE and this is designed for shooting landscapes. That means that you are trying to get a very deep depth of field – maximum depth of field in fact – and the very best quality. That means that the ISO is going to be as close down to 100 as possible and the aperture is going to be very small. Now that obviously has an effect on the shutter speed, which will be quite slow and that means that this mode is best for shooting with a tripod. Remember if you are shooting on a tripod you need to switch off the VIBRATION REDUCTION and you do that in the menus. This can produce very good landscapes. This mode also boosts greens and blues so that the landscape that you are shooting is quite vivid.

The option above landscape on the D3400 mode dial is PORTRAIT MODE and that really tries to do the opposite. It increases the shutter speed, it widens the aperture and it gives you a faster ISO. The reason it does that is because it is trying to get a very shallow depth of field. When you take a portrait you are focusing on the person’s face nearly every time and on the face you are focusing on the eyes and if the face is to one angle to you, you are focusing on the front eye. That is very important because when you shoot a portrait you want to blur out the background and so you need to have something something in that portrait – something in that face – which is pin-sharp, and as we all know when you look at somebody’s face you focus on the eyes first. So by having a very shallow depth of field the viewer is left in no doubt as to what is important in this picture. Portrait mode will also work well on skin tones and ensure that they are correct and if it is slightly dark then the flash will pop up.

The two modes above portrait mode are your AUTO MODES. These are essentially your point-and-shoot modes, if you come up from compact photography or even mobile phone photography, you will know that these are the modes where you can switch the camera on and press the button and it will take a half-decent picture. In both modes the Nikon D3400 is designed to get the best possible exposure. The difference between the two is that the green mode will use the flash if it thinks it is required – and it does not need to be that dark for it to decide that the flash is required – or the one below that is auto without flash and that takes perfectly good pictures but in situations where you may not want the flash to fire, perhaps you are in a museum or in the theater or you just do not want the distraction of the flash firing. On the back of the camera, if we press the ibutton, it is clear that we really are quite restricted in what we can change. We can change the quality and compression of the image, but we are then really limited to either changing the autofocus mode or the AF area mode. Nothing else can be changed in these modes, the camera does everything.

The semi-automatic modes on the Nikon D3400 mode dial are M, A, S and P. Strictly speaking M is manual and strictly manual but it is regarded as a semi-automatic mode because they are all grouped together. So the first one we come to is P – program mode – and it is the most appropriate, because it is the closest to the two Auto settings that are next to it. When you are in P mode the camera still tries to get the best exposure and still selects most of the presets, but it does allow you to choose a few more things. You can choose the shutter speed or the aperture. Now when you are in this mode you can change the shutter speed and aperture by rotating the dial on the top of the camera. That means that if you feel the shutter speed is not fast enough – or indeed is too fast – then you can change it. If you feel that the aperture is too wide or too narrow then you can change it and the camera will make other changes, to the shutter speed or to the ISO accordingly. When you are in this mode you will see the P at the top left hand corner on the Liveview screen and if you start to change the aperture or the shutter speed, then there will be an asterisk placed next to that to show that this is not the most appropriate mode that the camera thinks will get the best exposure, but that it will get the best exposure in the shutter speed or aperture that you have chosen.

The one above P mode is SHUTTER SPEED PRIORITY and that is really very useful, particularly if you want to control the shutter speed. Why would you want to? Well of course in sports mode I have explained that a fast shutter speed will catch the action, but if you want a faster shutter speed because the action is faster than sports mode expects, then you can set it up to from 1/500th, 1/1000th or 1/2000th up to 1/4000th of a second. Again it is a semi-automatic mode which means that the camera will change the aperture and the ISO accordingly. On the other hand if you are taking a picture of a stream or a waterfall you might want to slow the shutter speed down to say 1/15th or 1/10th of a second to smooth the water and give it a more smooth and relaxed feel to that picture. It does not actually freeze the water in midair but it gives you that element of motion blur, and if you are shooting night photography and you are shooting the night sky and you want to capture the stars, then you may want to slow that shutter speed down to five seconds, ten seconds – up to thirty seconds, which is easy to do with the Nikon D3400. So controlling the shutter speed can change the way the picture looks. That is why shutter speed priority is really useful.

The one above that is APERTURE PRIORITY. This allows you to prioritize the aperture. Why would you want to do that? Well we have spoken about aperture with regards to depth of field – if you want to have as much of that picture that you are taking in focus or sharp, then you would have a very narrow aperture and that means that the light takes longer to get in and hit the sensor and it means that the shutter speed needs to be a lot slower, etc. But it means that the picture is sharp, as much as possible, from front, mid and back. On the other hand, if you are trying to take a portrait, then you would want it to have quite a shallow aperture and so you can control it with aperture priority here. Now it is not always as simple as saying “oh why don’t I just put it on landscape” or “why don’t I just put it on portrait”. When you start to master your photography you will want to control what people see in your picture – what is sharp in your picture helps to tell the story and so it is important for you to be able to control all that depth-of-field, not just have everything sharp or hardly anything sharp. You might want to have the subject in the foreground and two people standing behind him sharp but two people standing behind them blurred because those front three people tell the story, not the five. Now that is quite difficult to achieve but, of course, you have the benefit of seeing the effect on the back screen. So it is important to be able to control your aperture because it does mean that you can use that in the storytelling of your pictures and how you use your pictures to tell the story that you are trying to tell.

Finally we come to Manual Mode on the Nikon D3400 mode dial. Now the beauty of manual mode is that you control everything. The camera no longer tries to get the best exposure – you are responsible for the exposure – and as a result of that you can change pretty much everything to get the sort of picture that you want. So manual is the thing that you progress to gradually. I would suggest that you start off with some of the basic settings so that you get a feel for the camera and then go on to P mode and then, as you become more confident, work through shutter speed and aperture priority. But manual then gives you the freedom to be as creative with your photography as you want to be. The difference, when you look at the back of the screen is that when you are in program or you are in shutter or aperture priority, when you try to change the shutter speed or the aperture then the rest of the settings change accordingly because the camera is still trying to set for the best exposure. When you are in manual, you can change the shutter speed or you can change the aperture and the other option does not change. So, in other words, the camera is not trying to manipulate the exposure because you have a completely free rein so that if you are in the back of the screen, by using the dial you can change the shutter speed, or by using the exposure button you can change the aperture by turning the dial. When you do that you will notice that when you are changing the shutter speed the aperture stays the same and when you are changing the aperture then the shutter speed does not move. This is real photography. It is why you bought a DSLR. Do not jump into it, but do not be intimidated by it either. This is a great way of exploring photography and doing great pictures – the ones you have always wanted to do.

Now is as a stepping stone into manual, I would suggest you take a look at the picture you want to take first in P mode because that will tell you what the camera thinks will be a decent exposure for what you’re trying to photograph, and then take a note of those settings and go into manual and then you can use those settings as a guide, as a benchmark, so that you know that if you just change those settings slightly you are not going to be too far out in terms of exposure. It is a great way of just having that safety net and knowing that you will be there or there abouts with your exposure. Of course, the advantage is that you will see that picture on the back screen straight away, so there is nothing really to be afraid of. This is what you bought a DSLR for and I encourage you to get into manual as quickly as possible. The back screen is fantastic for that because it means that you can see after every picture where you went wrong what were the good points and it allows you to progress your photography at a really rapid rate.

Image Stabilization

Major techniques Involved

  • Optical. It is defined as a method used in a still or a video camera for stabilizing the recorded image by changing the optical path to the sensor. The fact that the optical stabilization systems stabilize the image projected on the sensor before the sensor transforms the same into digital information forms one of their basic elements.
  • Digital. Real-time digital image technique is mainly used for video cameras. This popular technique helps in shifting the electronic image from frame to frame of video, enough to neutralize the motion. It employs the pixels for providing a buffer for the motion. This technique minimizes disturbing vibrations from videos and enhances still image quality by enabling a person to increase the exposure time without affecting the image quality. This technique hardly influences the noise level of the image.
  • Stabilization filters. Most of the video non-linear editing systems make use of stabilization filters capable of correcting a non-stabilized image by keeping a track of the movement of pixels in the image and correcting the image by moving the frame.

Advantages of the technique

Blurry images are a major problem faced by a majority of photographers both amateurs and experienced ones. Blurriness usually arises by hand movements while capturing images. The problem is more common when a person uses digital cameras with slow shutter speeds or longer focal lengths.

This IS technique enables photographers to take excellent pictures under lighting conditions that once upon a time were considered too risky for capturing clear and sharp still images. The technique helps in capturing sharp pictures at shutter speeds three, four or five times less than the normal. With the introduction of this feature, amateur and experienced photographers would not have to worry about blurred images even while shooting in poor lighting conditions.

Battery consumption

Always keep in mind that the IS feature also consumes power. Turning it on for a longer time drains the battery. It is advisable to switch it on only when required.

These are some of the prominent facts about the technique one must be aware of. A detailed understanding of the feature will help you know your device properly. Almost all the advanced digital cameras hitting the market come equipped with this feature today. You can consider buying the image-stabilized devices via an online electronic store these days. In addition to these devices, you can also consider buying the new camera lenses from these stores.

Mirror Effect

The first thing you will need to do is upload the images to your computer. After that, you will need to open Photoshop and then access the images in it one by one. Once you have opened the first image, right-click on it and then click on the option that says ‘Duplicate Layer’ and then click on ‘OK’. At this point, you will have to drag the panel where the image is displayed and increase its size in order to create space for the mirror image under it. After that create a ‘New Guide’ by selecting the same from the menu option called ‘View’.

The value for ‘Orientation’ and ‘Position’ should be ‘Vertical’ and ‘50%’ respectively. Now, you should drag the main image to the left of the guide that has been created with the help of the ‘Move tool’. Now select the portion of the image that should be ‘mirrored’ and then place it into a new layer. Now, making sure that in the layers panel, the ‘Background copy’ option is selected, flip the duplicate layer by clicking on Transform> Flip Horizontal and then move the reversed image immediately below the original (must fit together perfectly).

To move the image, hold down the ‘Ctrl key’ on the keyboard while simultaneously pressing the left button of the mouse. Click on ‘Enter’ and then exit the Transform command for the changes to be effective. Apart from that, you will also need to click on the ‘View’ menu and then click on ‘Click Guides’ for removing the guide and getting the final image with mirror effect. The next step will be to save the image created on your computer. You can then access it and upload it to your website or social networking sites for creating innovative and appealing advertising campaigns.

About Photo Editing to Improve Photos

Photo editing is important if you want to have a collection of top quality images that you can be proud of. It can help you to touch up your photos, by sharpening the image, removing items that should not be in the picture, as well as helping you to restore old photographs.

A lot of people still have a lot of photographs that were taken on an old 35mm camera, however, these photos can also suffer from the ravages of time, and in order to restore them to their former glory used to require the services of a professional photo restorer. Thankfully, even the most basic of editing programs can help you to restore your photos back to their former glory.

All you need to do is to scan your old photographs onto your computer, and then use the features on the photo editor to breathe some new life into them. You will be able to brighten up dull pictures, whilst at the same time repairing and removing all traces of tears and blemishes.

As good as the free packages are, they can be limited in what they will allow you to do, so if you are looking to produce top quality saleable photographs, then you might want to pay the extra cash for a really top notch photo editing suite.

Hopefully, this article has given you some idea on how even the most basic of all photo editing apps can help you to attain a high quality image. Photography is an excellent hobby; however, all too often images can be ruined by poor lighting conditions, or simply by selecting the wrong camera settings. With a photo-editing app, you can eliminate all of the unwanted areas of an image, leaving you with a professional looking snapshot.

About Astro Photography

Ideally, you are going to want to get out of the city and into the country to avoid light pollution. The warm glow of the city lights tend to mask the true glory of the night sky, which I am sure that anyone who has spent time in rural areas will testify to. Coastal areas offer better visibility.

Aside from the post-processing, taking good shots of the Milky Way is also a matter of knowing just where in the heavens to point your camera. However, it is not needle in a haystack stuff, and you don’t have to be an expert astronomer, or understand which planet is which, or which star is part of which distant constellation, to be able to figure it out. Interpreting the celestial canvas is a matter of understanding the seasons, which dictates where the distant stars are in the night sky. If you really don’t care to learn this amazing science, and that is not big deal really, you can always download the a Stellarium, which will give you an idea of where to point your lens in the night sky. This will give you an idea of where to point the camera at a given time of year. For example, if you live in the northern hemisphere, you should point the camera up high into the night sky during winter and in the south during summer, where you will see Orion, etc and the wider Milky Way. In the Spring, the Milky Way is likely to be more on the western periphery of the night sky. During the autumn, you are most likely to see the Milky Way high above the western horizon

You will need a DSLR camera, as these tend to perform much more efficiently in low light conditions, picking up all sorts of data that we are barely able to see with the naked eye. The lens aperture is of fundamental importance. A wide open lens (say f/1.4 or f/2.8) will allow your camera to gather the most light, however, this will come at the cost of sharpness towards the edge of your images. An aperture of f/2.8 can produce acceptable results, but your really do need a lens of the highest quality to do so. Be careful not go stop too far back, to say f/11 or above. However, at f/4 there may be a possibility that the blurred effect can be more pleasing that the sharp effect of starts at that aperture size. Therefore, it can often be better to accept a little blurring as a more pleasing result. Prime lenses tend to offer the best quality; but that comes at a cost. They very often have a limited focal length which is not entirely suitable for the wide angle skyscapes you expect with astro-photography.

Focusing in the dark can be a troublesome business, but an important one. Achieving what is known as “hyperfocus” or “infinity focus” is the only way to ensure that as much of the scene is in focus as possible. However, this does not just mean just turning the focus ring to the widest setting – hyperfocal distance is actually just short of this. There is a way around this though; focusing on a torch or flash light placed around 50 ft away (or the distance to hyperfocus) can be just as effective as a more scientific method of determine the plum point on the focal ring. The second method would be to use live-view and zoom in (with digital zoom rather than optical zoom) and adjust the focal ring until the stars are sharp. In my experience, though, this is not always an accurate, or more to the point stress-free, way to focus on the stars.

When taking certain types of astro-photography, it is actually better not to capture any movement in the stars themselves. This means you are going to have to limit your exposure time. In my experience, limiting to 20 to 30 seconds will probably suffice. Of course, though, the close the stars are to the celestial pole, the shorter any movement will be, and vice versa. When looking straight to the north star, with a long focal length, you may even be able to extend the exposure to 90 seconds.

Manipulating ISO will also provide some control over both the number of stars in view and the quality of the image. These, unfortunately are conflicting goals. The more you crank up the ISO, the poorer the image quality will be. ISO’s of greater than 800 will show up noise, even when viewed at large scale. However, the benefits are that the camera is letting the light flood into the sensor, bringing out a number of distant stars that perhaps aren’t even visible to the naked eye.

Compose A Great Photo

Rule Of Thirds

Compose your photo using the rule of thirds. Divide the picture area in to nine squares. Supposing you are taking a photograph of a landscape then the top one-third should be of the horizon and the bottom two-thirds should be of the scenery closer to you. You can also use this to compose the picture of a person by placing them in the central two squares and the back ground in the rest of the area of the picture. If it is a river or mountain in the background then place the person in the right or left bottom two squares of the composition while the river or mountain is placed on the side in the background.

Golden Triangle

When there are strong diagonal elements in the subject, divide the scenery into three triangles. A right-angled triangle occupies one half of the photo with the leading edge of the triangle running from one corner of the picture area to the other. The other half of the picture frame is divided into two right triangles by drawing a line from one corner to the diagonal. This draws attention to the strong elements in the bottom half where the two triangles are present. The other half is devoted to the background like a dark sky or a misty mountain.

Leading and Converging Lines

Here you take some lines like a road, a pathway edged on both sides by trees, a bridge leading towards the other end and composing a photo by drawing in the viewer’s eyes into the different elements that you want to highlight. Diverging lines distract the viewer away from the photo. So, take care when composing these photos.

The Fibonacci Spiral or Golden Spiral

Arranging the photographic elements in a Fibonacci spiral dramatically leads the viewers into the vortex of the picture. Take a spiral staircase or a whorl of a snail or a leaf delicately curled up and you get an idea of how this picture can be composed.

About Glamour Photography

Who May Have a Glamour Photo

Everyone. This is the simple answer to this. The dream of having a mesmerizing picture does not need to remain a dream. With the latest technology and professional photographers that a studio can offer, it is possible for anyone to have a glamour shot. It is understandable that some clients who are not professional models may shy away in front of a camera. The deal here is not all about self-esteem. Even people with so much confidence in themselves are not comfortable in having a photoshoot because they do not know what to do in front of the lens. In this case, the success of capturing the best shot resides in the close collaboration of the client and the photographer.

What it Takes to Have a Glamour Image

As mentioned earlier, make up has a lot of importance here. To achieve sexy photos, the stylist will usually give a heavier powder and paint to your face to accentuate the eyes and lips. Compared to the standard make up, glamour shoot needs to be bolder and warmer where the eyes appear smokier. You may come with your favourite dresses and accessories or you may go semi nude to flaunt that body of yours. Lighting techniques are also of grave importance as it will help highlight the features of your face. However, keep in mind that these are just standards. Whether your picture will be cool or emotional will depend on your preference.

What to Do for an Unforgettable Photoshoot Experience

Glamour photography used be for commercial purposes like magazines, product brochure and so on. As times are changing, it is now popular for personal use as a keepsake. Look for a studio that can offer a professional team to guide you all the way until the end. The output is always the product of the cooperation of the client and the staff of the agency so make sure you secured a booking so they can prepare the set according to your taste. And most of all, trust in your sultry body and the Professional Photographers.

Licenses of Stock Photography

Royalty Free License

Royalty Free License is always referred to as RF. This is the most commonly used and affordable license for Stock Photography. Royalty Free licenses are the ones where in the buyer can use the image several times without paying for the image every time he uses. Instead he just needs to pay the license amount and the photo charge once and get done with the payment. The disadvantage of Royalty Free License is that these photos can be purchased by many buyers and are non exclusive. Royalty Free images are sold by file size. A high resolution version of an image with a large file size (such as 60 MB) would cost more than the low resolution version of the same image with a small file size (such as 1 MB).

Rights Managed License

Rights Managed License is referred to as RM. Rights Managed Licenses are those where the buyer needs to pay for every use of the photo. Also, the buyer has to pay according to the usage of the image. Each usage is calculated separately and an image is sold for a ‘single use’. A Rights Managed License gives exclusive, time-limited use of a stock image. Right Managed Licenses also include Model Release agreement. Even though Rights managed images are expensive to license, they offer protection against brand dilution and allow for larger print runs.

Extended / Enhanced License

Some Stock Photography companies allow you to purchase an Extended or Enhanced license that extends the permitted uses of a previously licensed work. The license extended is usually the Royalty Free License. Extended licenses give you the permission to “extend” upon the uses granted in the original license. These uses may include increasing the number of copies showing the image, use it for resale purposes, or allow for other methods of distribution and use. Uses vary from company to company, so be sure to read the licensing agreement in detail.

Photo Stamping

Photo stamping refers to adding particular signature, name or watermark to your desired photographs. No matter who you are and where you belong, it can be useful for everyone out there.

There are many applications and tools available in the virtual world which serves the facility of photo stamping without a hitch. You can add text directly to your previously captured photos or can even click a new picture with your Inbuilt Camera and designated stamp will be added automatically.

THE DILEMMA:

Going to a flashback in time, photography was not as simple as “smile and click”, as it is today. Back there camera’s took long hours to just get a single click. But in today’s era technology has become so well versed, right?

Not only clicking pictures have become easy, but playing and doing different stuff with pictures like photo stamping and editing can be done with an ease.

EXPLANATION AND USEFULNESS:

  1. Capture and Secure:
    To all the amateur and professional photographers out there, you can make the best and optimum use of photo stamping functionality because, in the sea of photography where 300 million photographs are uploaded every day, there is a high risk of your work being stolen away. You can easily break down this fear of yours by simply adding a stamped tag of your name or signature on your captured clicks recalled as Photo Stamping.
  2. Family Tagging:
    You love to tag your friends and family in pictures when you are outing somewhere at an exotic location. Then you can freely make the use of photo stamping to name tag everyone in your clicked photograph and share it on your profile socially.
  3. Add text or description to photos:
    A picture captured beautifully is worth adding few words to it for the sake of that moment. And, If you are someone who loves to insert descriptive text to the photos according to the background and moment, then photo stamping is just what you would be looking for all these years.
  4. Popularize your brand:
    Photo Stamping would be perfect for you to go viral overnight and make your brand popularized among your targeted audience. You might be wondering how! Right? Simply promote your brand through fervid Images socially by adding your own logo or brand name to it.
  5. Geotag it
    In case, if you are the one who loves to travel and make everlasting memories with every journey you take, Geotagging is the best bet for your Images. You can quickly add that alluring location of yours as a stamp on all of your Images captured during that Journey to rescue all your travel diaries and make them immortal
  6. Copyright with Logo
    With Photo Stamping, you can add a Copyright Trademarked Logo on your Images and then distribute it on the Internet. The best example for the same is Shutterstock. They copyright protect all of their Images so that no one can else use them and if anyone does, still all the credit goes to Shutterstock Brand only.