Category: Camera

XiaoMi Yi M1 Mirrorless

Configurations

Speaking of the XiaoMi Yi M1, we must know about its configurations above all. This novelty comes with a Sony IMX269 sensor, detachable M4/3 bayonet, 20.16 million pixels, and a 3-inch touch screen with 1.04 million pixels. Except for the latest firmware update, the added value of focusing point is 81, improving the focus speed and accuracy.

Operations

Yi M1 is claimed to be a special mirrorless camera for smartphone users. If you often use the phone to take pictures, then the M1 is very easy to use for you. The equipped 3-inch touch screen is for this purpose. On this screen, you can touch focus, select the exposure, shutter speed and do other operations. On the body of Yi M1, we cannot find the common aperture, shutter speed, and other mechanical switches. All these functions are integrated into the touchscreen. With the turntable on the top of the device, it can achieve the most efficient parameter adjustment. It would take some time to get started for the old-style SLR or traditional mirrorless camera users.

Lenses

The currently released lenses of Yi M1 are only two, but the number of alternative lens groups has been enhanced a lot because of the using of M4/3 bayonet. All the M4/3 lenses from Panasonic, Olympus can be connected to the M1. The 12-40mm F3.5-5.6 lens would be enough to take pictures for daily use, equivalent to 24-80mm focal lengths, appropriate for most of the daily scenes. And the 42.5mm F1.8 lens is more suitable for making portraits. The larger aperture and 85mm equivalent will be more suitable to shoot photos with Bokeh, highlighting the portraits. As shown, the imaging quality of XiaoMi Yi M1 42.5mm lens is not sharp enough. And when the aperture is up to the maximum, the purple edge is obvious.

Anyway, the XiaoMi Yi M1 mirrorless camera provides a commendable performance. Especially, it would be a good choice for smartphone heavy users. What’s more, this low-cost mirrorless camera would be a decent option for the beginners of digital SLR and those who are not asking for extra high image quality.

Select Camera Flashes

  • Fixed Flash:- They are part of the camera, and they use battery of the camera as their power source. These are suitable for routine photography and their use requires very less technical knowledge.The downside of these type of flashes is that, they drain camera battery very fast, and they don’t help us to produce very high quality picture.
  • Dedicated Flash Units:- They are compact units with their dedicated power supply. They do not use camera battery so the life of camera battery is better in this case. These flashes fit in the camera shoe slot. They take inputs from camera circuit about the focal length of the lens, ISO sensitivity and shutter speed to accurately calculate the required intensity of flash. This feature can play a vital role in enhancing the quality of the images. These types of flashes can improve the picture quality to a great extent.
  • Xenon flashes: – These are useful in taking casual pictures, but sometimes they are used by professional photographers to take daylight pictures. They are very efficient while taking pictures under sunlight. These are very popular with the beach pictures and casual modelling photo shoot. The down side of these flashes is that they are not very effective in the low light conditions and this may result in a low quality picture in low ambient lighting conditions.

Out of these flashes listed here, you may select flash most suited to your shooting requirements. Proper camera and flash combination can create wonderful results.

SLR Camera Bag

A SLR camera bag is a good way to carry your SLR camera and lenses with you and keep them protected from damage. The bag you choose should have enough room to easily store all of your equipment. A good choice for a professional photographer or anyone who uses a variety of photography options is one which accommodates two or more cameras and a minimum of five lenses. You will also want a bag that you feel comfortable in carrying with adequate padding on carrying straps so that they take the impact off of the weight of the bag.

For those who like to have their camera readily accessible in case of an unexpected opportunity for a fast photo, a smaller bag may be the best choice for you. Although a small SLR camera bag will accommodate only one SLR camera and no more than four lenses, it will be easy to access what is needed when you need it. In spite of their smaller size, these bags still have the same great features of larger bags when it comes to durability and being resistant to water.

If your photography focuses on outdoor adventures and wildlife, an all-terrain bag that is made to resist all types of weather will suit your needs most effectively. These may be made in backpack styles or fit onto your waist to be worn as a belt bag.

For those photographers who demand versatility from their camera, a larger SLR camera bag with numerous compartments will give you room for a larger variety of equipment. Some of these are made to use as either a shoulder bag or as a backpack, making it simple to carry according to the area that you are in whether hiking long distances or riding on a crowded bus or plane.

It is important to find the camera bag that will accommodate the type and quantity of equipment that you need to perform your photography to its fullest. Your decision should be based on more than color or price. Instead, consider all of the features and the get the SLR camera bag that offers the best value for the money.

Nikon D3400 Mode Dial

So lets have a look at the first one on the Nikon D3400 mode dial – NIGHT PORTRAITURE. Now night portraiture is a mode which allows you to take a portrait at night. This is not as straightforward as it seems. First of all, it engages the flash to shoot what is called slow sync, and that opens the aperture and slows down the shutter speed, which allows the camera to get in as much of the light in the background of the picture as possible. Then, just before the shutter closes on the camera, the flash will go off to illuminate the subject in the foreground. That gives you a quite balanced picture where you have the subject well illuminated in the foreground but with the contextual background visible too. If you just shot with the flash then you would have the subject slightly overexposed in the foreground and just a black background. So by shooting it with night portrait it means that you get the background and some context in which the subject is standing and so it gives some meaning to the picture.

As with all of the semi-automatic modes – which are the ones that go up to M, A, S and P – essentially the ones that go up to the green auto mode, most of the presets are set and there is very little wiggle room. But when you are looking at each of them – particularly if you are looking on the back of the camera – there are certain things that you can change. It is worth knowing what you can change in each of the settings because you may want to change them just to slightly change the style of the picture that you are taking. So on the back of the camera you press the i button. It gives you the options that you can change when you are in each setting. So, for example, in NIGHT PORTRAIT we can change the quality and compression rate of the picture, the focus (autofocus or manual), flash compensation and exposure compensation. The final option open to you here is the ISO. That is set on auto and there is a very good reason for that when you are in night portraiture. The camera will set the aperture to be as wide as possible to get as much light into the sensor as possible, and it will also set the shutter speed to be at least 1/30th of a second, because any slower than that means there is likely to be movement blur when you take the picture. So that means that out of the 3 variables, ISO, shutter speed and aperture, you have basically fixed or minimized the options for two of them. So the ISO is the only variable that can move around with any great flexibility. In most cases the ISO probably will not go above 1000 or 1600. You will get an element of grain and noise in that shot, but it is a night portrait and to some extent that could and should be expected. So it is best to leave the ISO on auto in most cases. You can set it, but it does reduce the options for the Nikon D3400 and in this instance I think you should leave the camera to do what it does best which is to get the best exposure for your picture.

The mode just above the night portraiture on the Nikon D3400 mode dial is represented by a flower and is called CLOSE-UP MODE. It is a kind of macro mode which you can shoot even with the kit lens and it opens the aperture very wide which means that the subject in focus is very sharp but the background is blurred and that means that the subject stands out even more. The ISO is on auto for this and that is because you have set the aperture very wide, the shutter speed is set accordingly too for handheld photography and so the ISO is the only variable.

The one above close-up mode is the Running Man – the SPORTS MODE – and that prioritizes the shutter speed. It is very important when you are shooting sport or action that you have a fast shutter speed so that you freeze the subject in the frame and that means that you need at least 1/250th and probably 1/500th of a second shutter speed. So the ISO will go up accordingly, depending on the light, whether it is daylight or darker than that, it might go up to a 1000 or 1600 even 3200 and the aperture will be as wide as possible so that it can get as much light in and onto the sensor in that very brief period the shutter is open. The flash will not work and it will be on continuous which means that you will be shooting 5 frames a second, which is a good thing because it means that you are more likely to get a good frame out of any action that happens in front of you.

The one above sport on the Nikon D3400 mode dial is called CHILD MODE and it is ideal for candid photography. It is not a portrait mode but it is a mode which is designed for taking candid shots of people which also have plenty of the background in as well, to give that subject some context. It has quite a narrow aperture so that ensures that there is plenty of background in there. It means also that it slows down the shutter speed to give more depth of field. If it is deemed to be too dark, the flash will pop up. It also makes some of the colors a little more vivid but also focuses on getting the skin tones just right. Skin tones are really important in candid shots. When you look at a picture of person you look at their face or their features and the skin tones need to be just right. If it is not, it is really very noticeable. The colors of the clothes or the background can be slightly different from reality and the eye does not really register that provided the face and the skin look right and that is what this child mode is for – to shoot candid shots and get those skin tones right.

The one above child mode is LANDSCAPE MODE and this is designed for shooting landscapes. That means that you are trying to get a very deep depth of field – maximum depth of field in fact – and the very best quality. That means that the ISO is going to be as close down to 100 as possible and the aperture is going to be very small. Now that obviously has an effect on the shutter speed, which will be quite slow and that means that this mode is best for shooting with a tripod. Remember if you are shooting on a tripod you need to switch off the VIBRATION REDUCTION and you do that in the menus. This can produce very good landscapes. This mode also boosts greens and blues so that the landscape that you are shooting is quite vivid.

The option above landscape on the D3400 mode dial is PORTRAIT MODE and that really tries to do the opposite. It increases the shutter speed, it widens the aperture and it gives you a faster ISO. The reason it does that is because it is trying to get a very shallow depth of field. When you take a portrait you are focusing on the person’s face nearly every time and on the face you are focusing on the eyes and if the face is to one angle to you, you are focusing on the front eye. That is very important because when you shoot a portrait you want to blur out the background and so you need to have something something in that portrait – something in that face – which is pin-sharp, and as we all know when you look at somebody’s face you focus on the eyes first. So by having a very shallow depth of field the viewer is left in no doubt as to what is important in this picture. Portrait mode will also work well on skin tones and ensure that they are correct and if it is slightly dark then the flash will pop up.

The two modes above portrait mode are your AUTO MODES. These are essentially your point-and-shoot modes, if you come up from compact photography or even mobile phone photography, you will know that these are the modes where you can switch the camera on and press the button and it will take a half-decent picture. In both modes the Nikon D3400 is designed to get the best possible exposure. The difference between the two is that the green mode will use the flash if it thinks it is required – and it does not need to be that dark for it to decide that the flash is required – or the one below that is auto without flash and that takes perfectly good pictures but in situations where you may not want the flash to fire, perhaps you are in a museum or in the theater or you just do not want the distraction of the flash firing. On the back of the camera, if we press the ibutton, it is clear that we really are quite restricted in what we can change. We can change the quality and compression of the image, but we are then really limited to either changing the autofocus mode or the AF area mode. Nothing else can be changed in these modes, the camera does everything.

The semi-automatic modes on the Nikon D3400 mode dial are M, A, S and P. Strictly speaking M is manual and strictly manual but it is regarded as a semi-automatic mode because they are all grouped together. So the first one we come to is P – program mode – and it is the most appropriate, because it is the closest to the two Auto settings that are next to it. When you are in P mode the camera still tries to get the best exposure and still selects most of the presets, but it does allow you to choose a few more things. You can choose the shutter speed or the aperture. Now when you are in this mode you can change the shutter speed and aperture by rotating the dial on the top of the camera. That means that if you feel the shutter speed is not fast enough – or indeed is too fast – then you can change it. If you feel that the aperture is too wide or too narrow then you can change it and the camera will make other changes, to the shutter speed or to the ISO accordingly. When you are in this mode you will see the P at the top left hand corner on the Liveview screen and if you start to change the aperture or the shutter speed, then there will be an asterisk placed next to that to show that this is not the most appropriate mode that the camera thinks will get the best exposure, but that it will get the best exposure in the shutter speed or aperture that you have chosen.

The one above P mode is SHUTTER SPEED PRIORITY and that is really very useful, particularly if you want to control the shutter speed. Why would you want to? Well of course in sports mode I have explained that a fast shutter speed will catch the action, but if you want a faster shutter speed because the action is faster than sports mode expects, then you can set it up to from 1/500th, 1/1000th or 1/2000th up to 1/4000th of a second. Again it is a semi-automatic mode which means that the camera will change the aperture and the ISO accordingly. On the other hand if you are taking a picture of a stream or a waterfall you might want to slow the shutter speed down to say 1/15th or 1/10th of a second to smooth the water and give it a more smooth and relaxed feel to that picture. It does not actually freeze the water in midair but it gives you that element of motion blur, and if you are shooting night photography and you are shooting the night sky and you want to capture the stars, then you may want to slow that shutter speed down to five seconds, ten seconds – up to thirty seconds, which is easy to do with the Nikon D3400. So controlling the shutter speed can change the way the picture looks. That is why shutter speed priority is really useful.

The one above that is APERTURE PRIORITY. This allows you to prioritize the aperture. Why would you want to do that? Well we have spoken about aperture with regards to depth of field – if you want to have as much of that picture that you are taking in focus or sharp, then you would have a very narrow aperture and that means that the light takes longer to get in and hit the sensor and it means that the shutter speed needs to be a lot slower, etc. But it means that the picture is sharp, as much as possible, from front, mid and back. On the other hand, if you are trying to take a portrait, then you would want it to have quite a shallow aperture and so you can control it with aperture priority here. Now it is not always as simple as saying “oh why don’t I just put it on landscape” or “why don’t I just put it on portrait”. When you start to master your photography you will want to control what people see in your picture – what is sharp in your picture helps to tell the story and so it is important for you to be able to control all that depth-of-field, not just have everything sharp or hardly anything sharp. You might want to have the subject in the foreground and two people standing behind him sharp but two people standing behind them blurred because those front three people tell the story, not the five. Now that is quite difficult to achieve but, of course, you have the benefit of seeing the effect on the back screen. So it is important to be able to control your aperture because it does mean that you can use that in the storytelling of your pictures and how you use your pictures to tell the story that you are trying to tell.

Finally we come to Manual Mode on the Nikon D3400 mode dial. Now the beauty of manual mode is that you control everything. The camera no longer tries to get the best exposure – you are responsible for the exposure – and as a result of that you can change pretty much everything to get the sort of picture that you want. So manual is the thing that you progress to gradually. I would suggest that you start off with some of the basic settings so that you get a feel for the camera and then go on to P mode and then, as you become more confident, work through shutter speed and aperture priority. But manual then gives you the freedom to be as creative with your photography as you want to be. The difference, when you look at the back of the screen is that when you are in program or you are in shutter or aperture priority, when you try to change the shutter speed or the aperture then the rest of the settings change accordingly because the camera is still trying to set for the best exposure. When you are in manual, you can change the shutter speed or you can change the aperture and the other option does not change. So, in other words, the camera is not trying to manipulate the exposure because you have a completely free rein so that if you are in the back of the screen, by using the dial you can change the shutter speed, or by using the exposure button you can change the aperture by turning the dial. When you do that you will notice that when you are changing the shutter speed the aperture stays the same and when you are changing the aperture then the shutter speed does not move. This is real photography. It is why you bought a DSLR. Do not jump into it, but do not be intimidated by it either. This is a great way of exploring photography and doing great pictures – the ones you have always wanted to do.

Now is as a stepping stone into manual, I would suggest you take a look at the picture you want to take first in P mode because that will tell you what the camera thinks will be a decent exposure for what you’re trying to photograph, and then take a note of those settings and go into manual and then you can use those settings as a guide, as a benchmark, so that you know that if you just change those settings slightly you are not going to be too far out in terms of exposure. It is a great way of just having that safety net and knowing that you will be there or there abouts with your exposure. Of course, the advantage is that you will see that picture on the back screen straight away, so there is nothing really to be afraid of. This is what you bought a DSLR for and I encourage you to get into manual as quickly as possible. The back screen is fantastic for that because it means that you can see after every picture where you went wrong what were the good points and it allows you to progress your photography at a really rapid rate.

Info of Wi-Fi Cameras

The cameras also make it easy for you to share photos on social networks. To share the photos you only need to connect the camera to your favorite social network such as twitter or Facebook.

If you want to upload the photos to your phone or computer, you can easily do so. The good side is that you don’t have to use a cable to connect the camera to your Smartphone or computer for you to upload the photos; you only need to find a hotspot and you will be able to upload the photos automatically.

In addition to this, you have wireless control over the camera’s setting through your mobile device. Here you need to put on the Wi-Fi function and you will be able to connect the camera and your mobile phone and as a result you will be able to control the camera’s settings.

Although, Wi-Fi cameras have the above benefits, they are being faced by a number of challenges. Some of the challenges include:

  • The system is hard to set up: unlike Smartphones that have large screens thus making them easy to set up, Wi-Fi cameras have small screens which make it hard to properly execute the various options. The small screens make it complicated to operate the devices.
  • Lack of dedicated apps: While some manufacturers make it easy for one to upload pictures to a social network or storage system, the corresponding apps are usually under-developed and often lack the necessary key features. The apps also tend to be too slow to accomplish the required task.
  • Compatibility: the unfortunate thing is that most of the present programs work only on particular operating systems. For the cameras to effectively work, the developers have to work on programs that will work across all platforms.
  • Price: the existing Wi-Fi cameras are more expensive than the regular cameras which often repel customers from buying them.

While the cameras face the above challenges, it’s easy to solve the challenges and create devices that anyone enthusiastic about technology will be eager to have.

GoPro Hero

Dive Housing

Rated for depths of up to one-hundred and ninety-seven feet, the GoPro hero accessory dive housing is a must have for anyone who wishes to get that perfect shot in any underwater situation. Protecting your camera is key, and this dive housing unit keeps your camera safe, and keeps your underwater pictures clear and focused.

WiFi Control

Now you can use your camera to take pictures anywhere, even when you are not behind it. This is one of those GoPro hero accessories you will wonder how you lived without, enabling you to use a simple control remote to take pictures, and connect to your computer without messy cords. You can even add the BacPac control system for even further Wi-Fi range.

LCD Screen

On or off your camera, the detachable LCD screen makes getting the perfect shot a breeze. Whether you are behind your camera or away from it, GoPro hero accessories don’t get better than this. Now you can see exactly what your picture could look like, before you even shoot it.

3D Picture

Now you can create your own 3D movie or picture, with this great accessory. By using two cameras, and taking footage simultaneously, you can build a 3D shot that will be the envy of every photographer. It even comes with its own 3D editing software, to make every facet of 3D footage as simple as any other picture.

Additional Batteries

You never know when, or for how long you are going to need your camera. That’s what makes these GoPro hero accessories so great! No you can be sure you have all of the battery life you will need, in a small, energy-efficient package. These rechargeable batteries last about two and a half hours of total recording time, so always be sure to pack extras.

Nikon D3400 and Video

The other thing that is really important when you are shooting d3400 video is to understand that you are liberated by the moving image. What I mean by that is that when you are shooting a still particularly if you are shooting a still that you want to tell a story, then you will try to get certain components of that story into the frame, because those components in that frame and where they are positioned in that frame will help in that storytelling process. When you are shooting video you can have various components of the story, but not necessarily in the frame at the same time, because you can move the camera and the video will move with it from one component to the other and so, in doing so, bring those two components together. But they do not have to be in the frame at the same time. That is a really interesting skill to try to develop and it really brings your videography up to a much higher level, but it is something that for a stills photographer can be quite difficult to understand and quite difficult really to execute very well. Those are the two elements – sound and composition – which you will need to explore further and consider more when you are shooting video than when you are normally shooting stills.

So lets now take a look at the camera and see how we can prepare it to shoot videos. First of all we switch it on and we open up the lens. Now the interesting thing about this camera, unlike some other cameras, is it doesn’t have a specific video mode on the MODE DIAL. What that means is that you can shoot video in pretty much any of the modes. In some cases it does not make a great deal of difference and in others it makes a little difference. I would recommend really that you either leave it on AUTO or you leave it on MANUAL because when it comes to video modes you either have an automatic mode, which essentially does everything for you, or you switch it over to manual where you can have much more control.

I am going to switch it on to Auto initially so that we can have a look through that. So having switched the camera on then I go into menus and if I go into the SHOOTING MENU and at the bottom option there are MOVIE SETTINGS. These are the only settings which are specifically for shooting video and they are all in one place. If I go into that then I have various options – frame size and frame rate, movie quality. the microphone, wind noise reduction and manual movie settings. Lets start from the beginning and have a look at frame size and frame rate. If I click on there there is a long list of different frame rates and frame sizes. It is useful at this point to explain where they come from and how important they actually are. So 1920 x 1080 is Full HD and is probably about the best quality you can shoot on a DSLR at the moment outside of 4k, which is the revolutionary new system which not many people are using. Certainly in terms of social media – YouTube or Vimeo or any of those platforms – they are more than happy to take 1920 x 1080 and in fact they are more than happy to take also the one down towards the bottom here which is 1280 x 720. 1280 x 720 is called HD and 1920 x 1080 is called Full HD, so they are the frame sizes. If you like they they reflect the similar parameters to the file size of a still image so 1920 x 1080 is larger than 1280 x 720.

The next choice in the Nikon d3400 video settings is the frame rate. Now you have various frame rates here and they are different for different reasons. I am going to put this camera down and try and explain first of all why you have 60 and 30 frames per second and 50 and 25 frames per second, because whilst it might not seem terribly important it can be. These refer to television systems and in the United States there is a system called NTSC and NTSC runs at 60 Hertz. In Europe predominantly and also other parts of the world there is a system called PAL and PAL runs at 50 Hertz.

So if we now come out of frame size and frame rate, the next one down is MOVIE QUALITY and that option is either HIGH or NORMAL. Obviously, I would recommend that you choose high quality. The important thing to remember here is that, regardless of whether you shoot 60 or 30 frames per second, you are going to use a large amount of space on your memory cards, so an ordinary memory card when you are shooting video would be minimum size I would say 16 gigabytes and probably you will be looking at 32 gigabytes. Below that is MICROPHONE. As you probably know this camera does not have an external microphone socket. It does have an internal microphone and that is here and in fact it is not too bad. If we go into the microphone settings then we have three choices: the first one is MICROPHONE OFF which I do not recommend even if you do not really intend to run the sound. The reason is that having the microphone on and therefore having sound on your video even when you are editing can be useful because it can help you remember which clip is which. Then the other two settings are AUTO SENSITIVITY and MANUAL SENSITIVITY. Then the bottom option is MANUAL MOVIE SETTINGS. As I said right at the beginning you can shoot on auto or on manual settings on this camera. However, if you do not switch manual movie settings on here, then even if you switch around to manual settings, it will still run on auto settings because you have not told the camera that you want it to run on manual settings.

So lets move it around to MANUAL in the Mode Dial and see what I can change when I am in the manual mode. I go back into the Liveview here and I just make sure that I go round so that I am on the video settings here. Now, again it does not give me any more details here it just tells me the basics. Again it has the microphone in the bottom left hand corner, but if I press the I button then it gives me a lot more that I can choose from. It gives me again the movie frame and quality, but it allows me to change the white balance. It also gives me microphone, it allows me to change the ISO, it allows me to change the picture control, the wind noise reduction again, but they also allow me to change the auto focus area mode as well as the focus mode, so there are more things here that I can change when I am in manual mode. But lets have a look now and see how I can change the three more elements which are our shutter speed, aperture and ISO which is why I am in manual mode.

But lets have a look now and see how I can change the three more import elements which are our shutter speed, aperture and ISO which is why I am in manual mode. Now there are two elements here that I can change actually when I am shooting video. The one I can not do – the one on this set beforehand – is the Aperture and I need to come out of Liveview here and go back into normal manual mode, basically, in order to change the aperture. So if I come out of Liveview now and press the AUTO EXPOSURE button at the top and then use the main dial I can change the aperture to make it go up or down. In this instance I am down to f/4 and I can see here that I have got the ISO and the shutter speed at normal settings because essentially I mean stills setting. Here when I go into Liveview at the back then the aperture is set as we have just done it but I have the options now when I am either here before I shoot the video or during the video to change the shutter speed and the ISO. The way I change the ISO is by using this function button. Now if you looked at the setup menu video you will know that there is an option there called buttons and I can set this function button to ISO and I did that at the time because I think I said at the time that it helped video. This is why – because now I can just set the function button and on the back screen the ISO option goes yellow which shows it is live and then I can use the main dial to change the ISO and you can see when I do that because the exposure comes straight through to the back screen. I can see how that affects the exposure of my video.

DIY Camera Bag

One of the biggest reasons that you should consider a DIY camera bag instead of an expensive high-end bag is the fact that it won’t be attractive to thieves. People who steal electronics know what brand name camera bags look like and look for the best targets to steal from. A DIY camera bag will also allow you to customize it to fit your array of equipment so that you can always take everything you might need with you and have the right tools for every job.

To make a camera bag, you will need to choose the item that will serve as the shell. This may be a laptop bag, tote, or duffel bag. Keep in mind that the cushioning you add will take up a large portion of the space so you will need to account for added space. Cushioning will be the most important part of the bag because it is what will hold the camera and accessories in place and protect them from becoming damaged.

Two types of foam that are commonly used are open-cell foam and Styrofoam. Open-cell foam is thicker and “fluffier” than its closed-cell foam which is much more like cardboard. Creating the bag is as simple as using ripstop nylon to create the shell for the foam and then putting the foam inside of the nylon. Once you have done this, just hand stitch the opening together and glue the compartments to the foam on the bottom of the bag.

The compartments you create should be sized to give the camera and each individual lens a good, snug fit so that the items are held in place. The foam can be cut to fit the camera and provide cushioning all around the bag. Velcro might be used to hold the compartments in place. Your DIY camera bags will be custom made to fit your camera equipment at a much lower price than a designer bag that is made to fit any camera and equipment.

Insight Into Camera Lenses

Standard Lenses accompany a characterized central length and can’t be moved past that. The corner to corner of the negative is the same as that of the central length. They have this natural capacity to deliver pictures precisely as they show up before you. There are no noticeable changes. These ‘default lenses’ are utilized as a part of representation photography, as stillness is the prerequisite. These lenses are accessible at authenticated computerized lens rental.

Most camera lenses are purchased independently. There are a few companies that offer particular bundles that will accompany no less than one lens. Your most solid option is to investigate lenses at camera strength stores. The individuals who are new to photography might need to do a tad bit of examination to discover what they may require. Lenses may not be something they should stress over yet, particularly in the event that they are simply beginning.

One of the initial steps to investigating lenses is to discover the various types. You can utilize the Internet or converse with anybody you realize that are into photography. Numerous will have the capacity to let you know what to search for when you are purchasing lenses. At the point when surfing the Internet for data, sort in Camera Lenses. Additionally, inquiry different producers. Some of those sites will have awesome data for you.

Lenses can be either a solitary central length (prime) lens or a zoom lens which has a scope of numerous central lengths. Prime lenses have a tendency to be of preferable quality over zoom lenses on the grounds that there are bargains when outlining lenses with a wide range of central lengths instead of planning a lens with a solitary central length. It is hard to keep up sharpness all through the lense’s full zoom range. Generally, picture quality corrupts in zooms as they are stretched out to the more extended central lengths. Late PC planning of zoom lenses has enhanced their quality. In spite of the fact that zoom lenses are extremely mainstream I incline toward my most loved prime lens when I need to be guaranteed of a sharper picture. It is critical to note that most lenses are most honed amidst their gap range. The special case of this are lenses with substantial most extreme openings (f/1.4, f/1.2, or f/1). This is on account of these lenses are intended to be utilized at these most extreme gaps. I think it is critical for fledglings to utilize a prime lens since it compels them to ponder how to utilize only one perspective to make their photos.

The lenses are additionally delegated wide edge, ordinary and telephoto. You can have wide edge, telephoto, or midrange zooms as well. How they are arranged needs to do with the film or sensor size. What is viewed as a typical lens for a 35mm camera is a telephoto to a camera with a smaller APS (DX) size sensor or a wider point to a bigger medium organization camera. Since there is a wide range of sensor arrangements (sizes) ordinarily central lengths are discussed as 35mm counterparts, (what the central length would be for a 35mm camera). The lenses are measured in central lengths by millimeters. A typical lens is one where the edge of perspective is near what we ordinarily see with our eyes (50mm). A wide edge lens is one that includes a more extensive point of perspective than we ordinarily watch (50mm).

So what various types of lenses are there? Talking in 35mm camera reciprocals here, wide point lenses are those with central lengths under 50mm. A 28mm lens is a moderate wide edge while a 14mm is a fish eye with a compelling edge of perspective. With a fisheye lens, you need to ensure your feet aren’t in the photo when shooting. Telephoto lenses are ones with central lengths longer than 50mm. Picture lenses fall in this class. Some place around a 90mm lens is useful for a ¾ picture, where a 180mm is pleasant for a head and shoulders representation. In the event that you need to get not so close, but rather still individual with the untamed life you ought to begin with something like a 300mm and go for a 600mm on the off chance that you truly need to stay undercover to the grizzly brushing in favor of the slope. Quality telephotos are extremely costly in light of the fact that there is a considerable measure of enormous glass in them and they are the length of your arm.

Numerous lenses have large scale (close centering) includes however, there are lenses extraordinarily made for close-up work and their quality is better. The more extended the central length of a full scale lens the more prominent working separation there is from what is being captured. Viewpoint control (PC or movement) lenses offer the capacity to adjust for lens bending while shooting structures. Professional photographers utilize these. There are picture lenses that are delicate center or offer defocus control for the individuals who wish delicateness or decent bokeh to their pictures. Mirror telephotos offer a cheap different option for costly long lenses. They are much shorter and lighter since they have less glass and a mirror in their outline. Quality is negligible and they have an altered gap which is normally moderate importance you can’t utilize them in low light. The lens’ bokeh will likewise be rendered with circles in view of the mirror.

Choosing the Right Type of Camera

The electronics consumer market is so vast today that it is extremely difficult to just go and buy a product off-the-shelf without doing a complete analysis on the product itself in terms of price, features, benefits, suitability and many others.

As with automobiles, there are cameras for amateurs and professionals, for fun activities and for serious photography. So, let’s start with a few areas that we should look at and see if all the questions we have can be answered.

Cameras are by and large of these types – compact, compact systems and SLRs (single lens reflex). They come in different shapes, sizes and colors, with or without accessories.

Compact cameras

These are the ones that have a lens attached to the body of the camera, hence the term ‘compact camera’. Compact cameras are used mainly by those who just ‘aim and click’ in the sense that focusing and sensitivity are features that are programmed for the camera to define.

Compact system cameras

A compact system camera comes with one of two lenses that can be attached or detached along with an accessory like a flash gun to take photographs in all kinds of light. While most compact system cameras are sturdy and have in-built controls like compact cameras for taking pictures, they allow some amount of control and flexibility to the person using the camera.

SLRs

This segment of camera contains some of the biggest and most complex photography equipment that any photographer can handle. The camera body itself may be compact and handy and can still be used for an ‘aim and click’ mode but Digital SLRs as most of these cameras are referred to, can be fitted with a complex range of lenses and accessories that allow the photographer to control every aspect of a picture from brightness to contrast, colors, movement and focus etc. DSLRs come with elaborate kits for easy portability of lenses and these cameras are most suited for outdoor photography such as landscapes, wildlife and nature etc.

Bridge cameras

These look like a ‘bridge’ between the compact cameras and DSLRs but come often with long lenses that are not interchangeable. However, their ease of use and portability make them very useful.