Tag: lens

Lens Hood

Lens Hoods

The hoods are supposed to prevent the lens flare or glare. But when it comes to lens hoods, the range of choices is quite large. Firstly, there is the basic version. This is similar in resemblance to a lamp shade and it is utilized on the lenses which work in the larger areas of the tele zoom. Since in this case the angle of vision is very narrow, the phenomenon of vignetting (obstructing the field of view used by the lens) will not appear. Today’s market offers various types of lenses which can start from wide and continue to telephoto regions. In this case, the regular lens hoods cannot be used particularly since they can cause vignetting.

Design

The aspect of design is taken care of by using hoods which are specially created for this purpose. They are constructed by measuring the horizontal and vertical angle of vision in a separate manner. Normally, the horizontal angle is larger than the vertical one and the sunlight brought by it. This requires a design shaped as a flower or even a petal.

In what concerns the hood for every lens, this needs to be created according to the angle of the lens or else vignetting will appear. In addition to this, the lens hood also protects the lens from getting physically damaged. Some of the hoods for cameras (prosumer models) fix filters of teleconvertors directly on them. When it comes to macro photography, the short lens hoods have ring shaped LEDs placed over them. This way great lighting is assured from closer angles. The hoods mentioned are very flexible and offer great freedom to photographers. But when battery packs are included, the camera might lose its stability a bit.

Matte Box

The matte box is used especially in the video area rather than in the photo field because it can help the photographer adjust the length of the fins. Also known under the name of French Flags, the fins come with a great flexibility and freedom of movement. They are less used in the still photography and they are mainly dedicated to small environments such as studios (mostly due to the huge size of the matte box). Next to this, they also are a great place to fix plastic or glass filters.

Thus, when you decide to purchase an object of this type, you should also include a lens hood in the deal because it will provide a better quality when working with direct sunlight. This way a better contrast is created and pictures can look more powerful due to the hoods, since sunlight will not fall on the front elements of the lens.

Methods Of Cleaning Camera Sensor

Camera cleaning mode

Most digital cameras have a sensor cleaning mode and this is what you should always try first before going for any other type of cleaning. You should remove the lens and then aim your camera downwards when engaging the cleaning mode. This way, dislodged dust and dirt will fall out easily. The sensor cleaning mode is sometimes all you need to have a clean sensor, but you might need to employ other cleaning options if this does not yield the results that you expect.

Air blower

Bulb blowers make other very good tools to help you clean the camera sensor. Choose larger blowers to get rid of dust from the sensor, but never ever use air that is compressed and canned on the sensor because your risk fluid damage. When using the blower, point the camera downward to the ground so the dust can fall off the camera. The blowers use clean air paths ensuring that blown dust doesn’t get sucked back and re-deposited on the camera.

Sensor gel stick

A sensor gel stick and a senor brush have the same function. They are negatively charged and therefore pull dust particles off the camera sensor as compared to moving them all over the sensor. It is advisable not to press down the stick or brush on the sensor because passing over the sensor is good enough to attract the dust. Some have LED lights that help you see how you are cleaning. When getting your gel stick, ensure that it is compatible with your camera. You can choose the gel stick or the brush, whatever you feel works best for you.

Sensor swabs

The swabs also do a great job cleaning the sensor and you will need a good sensor cleaning solution for this type of cleaning. Disposable swabs are the best so make sure that you use a swab only once to get perfect results. The manufacturer’s directions should be followed, but you usually will need to brush the swab across the sensor in only one fluid motion and light even pressure application. If the one motion is not good enough, then you can turn the swab over and then brush again across the sensor in the opposite direction. You can use the sensor to wipe to dry off any cleaning solution residue.

Cleaning Your Digital Camera Lens

  • BUY a simple camera lens cleaning kit – not expensive and invaluable. Commonly includes a microfibre cloth, a blower brush and some lens-cleaning fluid.
  • DO NOT overlook your casing. Regularly clean the casing as this will pick up grime, grease, and dust quickly.
  • DO NOT be heavy handed when cleaning the lens. Remember it is a fragile piece of equipment. If grime is hard to get off, do not rub it harder! Keep it light and be patient.
  • Use a Blower Brush for removing dust on your lens. Remember to extend a zoom lens to its narrowest or widest focal length to make the glass accessible.
  • Some lenses are weather sealed, however try and avoid using a cloth dampened with water if possible. A dry microfibre cloth should remove all the dirt, and dust just fine.
  • If there is grease, oil or a smudge on the camera lens, use a liquid based lens-cleaning fluid. Use sparingly, use with a microfibre cloth, and rub in a circular motion.
  • LENS WIPES are an excellent alternative to microfibre cloths. They are cheap, disposable, and have excellent cleaning capabilities.
  • Buy a CAMERA LENS FILTER. This will protect the front element of your lens. A standard UV filter is ideal. Also replacing a damaged filter is much cheaper than replacing a damaged lens!
  • A fine soft painters brush is an excellent cheaper alternative to a blower brush. A soft bristle, camel hair brush is ideal, commonly available in art stores, or online.
  • NEVER forget the importance of keeping your digital camera lens clean! The exposed glass elements on your lens are the most important parts when it comes to optical quality.

Every photographer should regularly check their lens for dust and smudges. It is not only to ensure you are taking the ‘sharpest’ possible shots, but also a smudge or a fingerprint left for a long time could cause permanent damage to your expensive camera lens. As we all know keeping your lens clean isn’t exactly mind-mindbogglingly difficult, but nevertheless it is a task that should be performed regularly, patiently, thoughtfully, and attentively. Arm yourself with the proper lens cleaning tools which are and invaluable investment and will be worth their weight in gold.

Benefits Of 50 Mm Lens

Ideal For Low Photography

The 50 mm lens is a prime lens thus it takes professional-quality photos. It has a wide aperture of f1.8 which allows more light to enter through the lens opening. The large aperture gives you the freedom of using faster shutter speed in order to avoid camera shake.

You can also use slower shutter speed and lock out noises you get from higher shutter speeds. If you are experienced, you can use both the faster and slower speeds.

Light Weight

Depending on the brand, a 50 mm lens weighs between 4.3 oz to 6 oz. This means that there’s no reason why you should leave the lens at home. If you are not in the mood of carrying a whole bag of stuff around, you only need to take your camera and the lens and you will be good to go.

Cheap

Lenses from the most popular brands go at a price range of $100-200. This price is too low compared to the quality of images taken. According to expert photographers, the quality of an image taken by the nifty fifty lens is almost the same as that taken by a $600 lens.

Super Sharpness

Since this lens is a fixed lens, you are able to take sharper images as there are less moving parts inside the lens. There are also less lens elements to give you blurred images. The large aperture in the lens greatly contributes in giving you sharper images.

Versatility

Since the lens is neither too wide nor too long, you can use it on a wide range of environments. For example, you can use it on the streets. You can also use it to take portraits. To take portraits, you only need to put the lens on an APS-C sensor.

Normal

The lens is categorised as a normal or standard lens. This means that the lens mimics the human eye. Due to this feature, the lens gives a natural look to the images that you take. This feature is also great for beginners as they won’t feel as if they are looking through a lens.

Lens For Every Occasion

TELEPHOTO AND MACRO LENSES

Telephoto lenses are probably the most popular of all lenses. They are perfect for portrait and wildlife photography as they offer a closer view to your subject and in doing so, keeps distortion low. Faster lenses, with some type of stabilization are best, look for stats such as F2.8 or similar with IS or OS.

Macro Lenses, often used for focussing on finite detail in very small objects, are usually high quality lenses, and well manufactured. Find a lens with a fast maximum aperture of F2.0 or F2.8 if possible. You’ll pay more for it, but your ability to experiment with selective focus will be much greater.

TILT SHIFT LENSES

Tilt Shift lenses are high end and ideal for correcting camera perspective, caused by angling upwards or downwards, which results in a “leaning in or leaning out” type distortion. The frontal lens element is shifted to oppose the tilt of the camera. Usually not wider than 90mm, expect to pay upwards of $2K per unit, but hell it’s worth it.

Tilt Shift lenses can also be used to create a miniature effect known by the Japanese as “Bokeh”. This effect mimics the extremely limited depth of field by fast, shallow depth of field lenses, and can be used to incredible effect.

WIDE ANGLE LENSES

Wide angle lenses, are identified by the bulbous shape to the glass front of the lens. They are loved by landscape photographers, the world over. A good lens should include high quality glass, have a low corner distortion rate, where a falloff in sharpness in the corners is minimal, and versatile features such as Image Stabilization (IS). Ideally they should also include a lens hood to minimize lens flare, when shooting into light or the sun. Generally the heavier a wide angle lens the higher quality of the glass used in manufacture, and the better the lens overall.

FISHEYE LENSES

Fisheye lenses are amazing bits of glass, with the bulbous element protruding from the housing of the lens, they are quite fragile, and easy to scratch. they cant be protected by a UV filter, but instead use slip in gelatin filters in the rear of the lens. Find one thats fast, F2.8 or 3.5, like Sigma’s 8mm. Look for edge to edge sharpness as well, again price will dictate quality. These are great for fitting the whole world into one shot, almost literally, with most providing a full 180 degree view! Expect to pay between $1K and upwards of $3K for top end.